Robin and I were on our way to Syria to visit World Heritage sites and meet professionals in cultural heritage, but Robin was turned away at the border when the border patrol discovered a luggage sticker from Israel. So I headed on without her. Other than the anger and frustration of the rigid political stance that bans arrivals from those who have visited Israel (even though a visa was issued!), my visit was a transformative experience.
At every turn perceptions and myths were rapidly erased as a lone American traveler winded his way through days of exploration and conversation; amidst travelers from many nations, but not the United States.
Syria’s critical location for centuries between Turkey, Lebanon, Jordan and Israel, and bordering Iraq and the rich Mesopotamia Valley along the Silk Road, is a historical crossroads of wars and trade. Today, Syrians are warm, welcoming people – embracing Westerners, offering food, shelter and open hospitality. One told me that everyone he knew cried on 9/11 over the violence they witnessed.
The nation’s cultural legacy is of course rich, with great wonders for the visitor to behold. The Old City of Damascus is a World Heritage Site challenged by being in city center with bustling narrow streets and a melting pot of locals and foreigners. Palmyra, a massive Roman site along the Incense Route, could be threatened with encroaching real estate developments. But it’s one of the best preserved Roman treasures I have seen in 30 years of being in many a coliseum. Completely different was the Krak de Chevalier, one of the world’s largest crusader castles with double moats. Both a full day’s drive – but not off-the-track for today’s inquisitive travelers. Finally was Bosra, located near Jordan, the outstanding ancient Roman capital of the region of Arabia, 500 AD.
Syria is a “hot destination” for Europeans – British, French, Spanish, Italian, German, Dutch and many tour operators’ portfolios reaping delightful response from loyal well-traveled guests, yearning to see this country before it may change forever. New leadership is now opening relations to the West. But Americans have not yet caught on.
