Egypt, Jordan, Dubai & Abu Dhabi, Israel & Palestine

December 27, 2008– January 20, 2009

Part II, two part series

By Robin Tauckrtauck@robintauck.com

…"believe that old hatreds shall someday pass; that the lines of tribe shall soon dissolve; that as the world grows smaller, our common humanity shall reveal itself; and that America and Americans must play a role in ushering in a new era of peace. For as much as government can do and must do, it is ultimately the faith and determination of the American people upon which this nation relies."
— President Obama in his Inaugural Address

After 30 years in travel, and over 85 countries visited, little could prepare me for my return visit and recent travels to the Middle East.

My journey, commenced on December 27th, the day of first brutal Air raids on Gaza, and proceeded for three eventful weeks in Egypt, Jordan, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Israel and Palestine at the height of conflict; concluding the day of the Cease Fire on January 19th.

I returned home to America on Inauguration Day; American had changed, and I was a changed woman.

These are undeniably … extraordinary and unsure times. The world is poised on a delicate scale tipping to hope and optimism and, I hear and see on the ground, incredible recognition of global economic development, cultural understanding and peace. I interviewed well over 40 people and while the future for any of them was uncertain… their smile, stories and outreach to us, other travelers and businesspeople, was genuine.

Watching the Media: America, U.K., Qatar, Egypt, Israel…
My hundreds of miles in the desert countries helped me forge my own view yet how complex that was, in the face of non–stop 448 hours of media from CNN, Fox News, BBC, and Qatar’s Al Jezeera showing terrible images and hosted talks (interviews were mostly among Westerners, not between Muslims and Westerners). I read daily editorials in Cairo’s Egyptian Mail, The Herald Tribune, Jerusalem Daily and Gulf News, but as the 22 days progressed, there was little time for print. TV and web were my fastest source for latest information – just 60–100 miles away. The Gaza images were the front page shameful views of atrocities, escalating daily reports with catastrophic loss to over 1,300 dead, hundreds of children, 5,000 injuries and 25,000 homes and 20 mosques destroyed.

Meanwhile far away in the United States, were such wonderful leading news of the Inauguration preparations in Washington, and the courageous, heroic story of US Airway’s miracle landing on the Hudson. What an interesting mix of news….

TRAVELERS ARE DIPLOMATS OF PEACE

There is an unspoken opportunity and challenge bestowed upon us as travelers. On the local streets, in hotels and watering holes … will we feel comfortable traveling, talking, sharing bread, hookah and tabouli, praying, shopping and enjoying our time together, there are moments of hesitation that fall upon us; a veil of silence with eyes intent on observation. I watched people individually work through this, and then boldly reach out.

We, the professionals in travel, are depended upon for advice to hundreds of thousands of travelers … where to go, how best to travel, but how to stretch our minds; engage, question and build new perspectives. In group tourism, we excel at connecting unconnected peoples; the most transformational experience of all – far superseding the iconic World Heritage landmarks our guests come to see. This yearning to "connect and understand" is far more powerful today than ever.

I urge my colleagues to support tourism and travel to Egypt, Jordan, Israel/Palestine, Oman, UAE and the Middle East; Share with you clients first–hand reports from travel professionals, friends and top hotel and tourism companies, with due diligence.

Please do not discourage interested travelers…For we are at an extraordinary time – and change will happen faster than any of us can imagine. Some people wish to be "part of" the change.

LANDS OF EGYPT – LAND OF RECONCILIATION

My journey began Dec 27th for days following the holidays, at the time when the casualties immediately raised to 300 dead, and humanitarian aid was an outcry for Egypt. Open the Borders! My tenth visit to Egypt in recent years. Fifteen days in central Cairo, amidst 5 border crossings from UAE, Jordan and Israel, we spoke many times with government and tourism officials as well as Cairenes of all walks of life. What was the Egyptian perspective? How did Americans approach issues and is there openness to discuss President Mubarak’s decisions, particularly with pressure of the Arab nations. Cairo traffic, frenzy and new 5–star hotels and Nile riverboats result in Egypt’s travel growth reported as "phenomenal" with a recent 30% drop in January occupancies; the first two quarters look strong; but 2009 and 2010 unknown. This highly political tourism dependent country must watch its political position, keeping distinctly separation from matters of its neighbors while taking a lead position in diplomacy.

Interviews included local leaders of A&K, Tauck, American Express, Four Seasons, Marriott, Sofitel and more. Valuable insights were gleaned and tourist hotels were busy.

One momentous day, January 6, 2009 ….as reports soar of "550 dead in Gaza", Dr. Zahi Hawass, Supreme Council of Antiquties and modern day Crusader, joined myself and travelers, post press conference at the "just discovered" 6th Century BC tomb (4,300 years ago) and sarcophagus at Saqqara, believed that of the Kings inner circle, in the Old Kingdom Teti period. Imagine that! Breathless, agape and standing in awe with the archaeologists, we peer inside. 4500 years buried …opened on this New Year 2009…so very kindly shared with a small group of everyday American tourists.

Quoted from the world’s leading Antiquities expert, Dr. Hawass, "we will see more revelations in Egyptology in 2009 than ever before, including significant new discoveries by February 2009, it is an extraordinary special year to be coming to Egypt."

In private discussions with Mr. Farouk Hosny, 21–year Egyptian Minister of Culture and candidate for UNESCO Secretary General in Paris, inspiring talks covered economic realities converging with excitement and passion in what Egypt holds for future travelers. For a fact, travelers to Egypt in 2009, 2010 and 2011 will see and experience far, far more than decades of visitors; let us all encourage all who wish to "travel to Egypt and all the neighbor countries now, as more inspiring and open than ever." Mr.Hosny and the tourism representatives vow to "open new sites" with easier access, such as our private flights not yet commercially available from Luxor to Aqaba. The current priority for the Egyptian government and state, is for "Sustainable tourism" and "sustainable practices" to better the less mindful practices of tourism policies of years past.

ABU DHABI & DUBAI – SHEIK ZAHID’S VISION…STILL STANDING TALL?

From January 1–4, 2009, we were in Abu Dhabi and Dubai, where front page headlines turned from "tourism boom or bust" to "real estate boom and bust"…. difficult to focus conversation on Gaza, or even tourism trends, as the focus here is strictly "Real Estate". From GM’s at new hotels (over 340 in Dubai up from 317 in 2008) including extravagant Atlantis or the Trump Plaza at The Palm Island, reports unfold of projects "on hold" and "cancelled." Real estate sales are down, rentals on the rise, and a city of gold reassesses its future. Per "Gulf News / Business", Dubai Tourism will Rebound in 2009. In 2007, Dubai had record growth, strong revenues and 7 million tourists; and aims for 15 million visitors by 2015. The city has more than 49,000 hotel rooms, pre the slowdown enjoying 80% occupancy and above. Business was down 20% in the last quarter of 2008 but the first quarter of 2009 looks stable, per reports if Dubai Tourism Rebound, Gulf News.

In Dubai, I anticipated a bedazzled, peak season New Years Weekend ( Las Vegas style), instead, witnessed a calm, sunny, make–believe city with little traffic, leaving only those who have visited Dubai previously, realizing the unprecedented growth of Sheik Zahid's massive vision. Despite the 2009 naysayers, my position mirrors Simon Cooper, President of Ritz Carlton Hotel Company quoted in "Gulf Business" in December 2008, "This region will be very strong; the Gulf is very, very resilient, and while no denying there is an impact, the Middle East will be less impacted than other parts of the World";. The World Travel and Tourism Conference we attended in March 2008 underscored this reality.

These days in 2009, I walked the new Dubai (Emirates) Airport, saw the finishing touches of Burj Dubai/Armani Hotel, largest building in the World, and walked the full length of the just–opened Mall of Dubai with 1200 stores, soon to be outdone by Mall of Arabia with 1,400 stores!

Then to the largest emirate, Abu Dhabi, to stand beneath the "call to prayer" at the Grand Mosque, 3rd largest in the World, glimmering white and bejeweled; far larger than the Taj Mahal, a site for future generations. I beckon them to open their doors to all faiths and friends…it is so unbelievable. Onward to new visionary "Cultural District" on Saadiyat Island…with "insider sneak previews" to Guggenheim, Louvre, and architecturally stunning World Cultural Centers opening in 2012.

After our travels in Dubai and Abu Dhabi and its future … My Columbia U senior graduates … question the growth and see a "bust", but I see a "boon". Time will tell.

JORDAN – HEART OF THE MIDDLE EAST, AN OPEN MUSEUM

The centrally positioned "heart of the Middle East", the awesome country of Jordan has hit a 2008 record in tourism. Jordan has taken front row seat in tourism, sustainability, cultural heritage and economic development in the Middle East and hat’s off to them. How I marveled at their focus on legislative planning, open arms to tourism, diplomacy and philanthropic social aid…a view on public/private partnership that is "successful" at best. First seen amidst a small delegation of leaders from USTOA after 9/11, my subsequent visits and our decision to add Jordan to our 72 touring countries, have been nothing short of phenomenal success. In fact, January 12, 2009 saw the first "private plane" of Tauck travelers welcomed to Aqaba, at brand-new King Hussein Airport. Incredible, instant access to Petra, via the desert sands of Wadi Rum, with remote and storied landscapes, tented Bedouin enclaves and authentic Arabian caravans and lifestyle. As a company, we are so careful to assure authenticity is sustained and not disrupted. We are greeted as very welcomed people in the Jordanian Bedouin camps.

Three interviews were Jordan highlights: firstly in the desert south, with a Bedouin man "Muhammed" and his 12 children aged 28 to 4 in his private home, a 57–year old construction manager who gave us the straight story from his heart. Secondly, my talks with a cooperative of 8 shy Muslim women at Taybeh outside Petra, who with help from USAID and UN Foundation, who have just now in 2009, turned primitive Nabatean pots into authentic mosaic–glazed pottery treasures; thereby providing a) huge economic needed prosperity to their community, b) authentic art pieces to Petra visitors and c) abolishing cheap imported souvenirs to the World Heritage region of Petra. Our foundation is proud to help support, along with the UN Foundation, such community efforts from 5 villages, removed from the lands they once lived in, and seeking to create a living from the wonders of tourism as we now protect the Petra Archaeological Park.

The Jordanian civilians…. did not see barriers to tourism and global peace, but rather saw a "huge future" for their country and their children, far from what was imagined in their life. It struck me…what a blessing we have, to help make this happen; it is such an important and ethical goal in our travel careers.

Finally, 200 miles north was my special, honored meeting with Senator Akel Biltaji, former Minister of Tourism, Ambassador & Advisor to King Abdullah II and Queen Rania and Chairman of International Senate Commissions on Sustainable Tourism and Economic Development. After much talk of Jordan’s plans, Akel prompted me to continue my travels, pointing over the Dead Sea to the twinkling lights of Jerusalem and Jericho under a starry still night. We yearned to see "what lies beyond"…in a nation at War, the seventh conflict for Israel. Akel left me speechless and in deep thought, and as he left for the Washington Inauguration, he smiled at me and said eye to eye…"Do not be afraid, you will be safe, and please see it all including Ramallah." After a sleepless night, we crossed.

ISRAEL & PALESTINIAN ZONES A, B, C – CROSSING THE LINE AT WAR

Readers of this publication have dozens of vivid memories of "when I was….", as do I. We are so fortunate for our experiences in our special careers. Traveling 120 days per year to over 85 countries leaves room still for my imagination. The recent days of January 16–19, 2009 during my first visit to Israel and Palestinian lands are those I will never forget. We were labeled "courageous" …by Palestinians and others. What is the definition of "courageous" in the 21st century… as related to travelers? Like our fellow visitors in Israel, we are informed, smart, independent …are we really, courageous?

The Allenby Bridge & Palestinian Crossings
Our party of three crossed by land over the famed Allenby Bridge, the only Jordan–Israeli border permitted to Palestinians; a hodge–podge of lines, busses and frenzied activity. Normal? Not sure. We chose the "ground crossing" as opposed to protective air/flight crossing, recommended by most U.S. travel agents. For an hour, we are in no–mans–land, left between our Jordanian hosts halted at one checkpoint; and distanced from our Israeli hosts positioned afar at another. Surely a somewhat uncomfortable position, amidst international tension, two lands at war, and gathered hip–to–hip in a funnel of humanity, all surrounded by the vast (Zone C) Judean desert land. But we are fine; everyone was very polite and we were ushered smoothly to Jerusalem in two hours.

The Holy Land – January 2009
My first impression? Wow – we are in the Holy Land, and I feel secure by the warm embrace of so many religions. Despite warnings to not venture at night, we walk for hours in and outside the Old Town, and watch like strangers, the steadfast procession of Sabbat devotees streaming to the Wall. Will this night be safe on the day that Gaza reports "over 1,000 dead, over 5,000 wounded." The 5pm Muslim Call to Prayer sounds eerily like a Call for Mercy, at this sundown. The quiet praying, quiet streets and still night surround us, a soft golden glow enveloping the city of Jerusalem. From all we can see and surmise, life is as normal but something is different. We have another restless night, as TV images haunt us, meanwhile our fellow tourists delight in their first days in the Holy Land. A dilemma that brings about dialog amongst us well past nightfall.

By day, some police barricades, sirens and closed roads barely slow the flow of traffic and tour busses; yet walkers and shoppers continue on, with this subtle reminder of security measures – and distant grey walls of stalwart separation with anti–Israeli graffiti cause us to ponder and pause. Guards are friendly, relaxed, and quick at their duty, keeping business and traffic going. On the holy day of Friday January 17th, Israeli Security forces Mosques "closed to any person under the age of 50." We feel ashamed to hear this, and wonder about the potential for extremist reaction.

We take bolder steps the next day into Zones A and Zones B, where security checkpoints require us to leave our Israeli hosts behind…for their safety. By Saturday, January 18th, roads close for UN Security General and Six Heads of State from U.K., Egypt, Croatia, Germany, and EU leaders meeting at the Prime Ministers home. We meet at the luxury King David Hotel where diplomats are convening and interview the hoteliers, security patrols including our security bodyguard who accompanied CNN’s Anderson Cooper one week prior, on the battlefront.

Israeli Guides…Palestinian guides
Requesting a born and bred Palestinian tour guide, followed by a Jewish Israeli guide, we spend equal time at the sites and equal time for perspectives. Both have given over 20 years of their lives to this profession and are amongst the best I have seen in 70 countries. Very interesting…suffice it to say, I came away with an entirely different and now–holistic view.

Overall, I felt akin to fellow Americans, Israelis, Europeans, Russians and countless others who simply "moved on" with their lives with vocal vows, privileged pleasure and deep gratitude to be in the holiest of sites, the holiest of places at this time, or any.

Nearby two city states, two factions of Palestinian power, and hidden–from–comment positions from USA World Leaders who, together with Israel, clearly planned what was meant to be a short but brutal end to Hamas. Plan foiled. Now, the world awaits response, as Hamas leaders and loyalty to Hamas soars within the state. Accountability to International and Humanitarian laws will face the Israeli parliament. A solo American, I learned with interest in Palestine….of the social help, education, healthcare and support that Hamas provided its millions of needy inhabitants…obviously, valid reports we don’t hear back in America. The Palestinians are very united in their demands for their lands.

FINAL THOUGHTS TO OUR 28,000 AMERICAN TRAVEL CONSULTANTS

Be part of the solution. You have an unprecedented position of influence, and while our economic woes and lack of sales may be top of mind – reach out to those clients remotely considering travels treasured lands of Egypt, Jordan, Israel and the Middle East.
Restore Confidence. Encourage your valued clients and perspective travelers, (who by all admission are discouraged by friends, families and travel agents) … to travel to these countries now; it will become …the most meaningful trip of their lives. If my mother, Lee Tauck, who was somewhat hesitant, can feel this way, so will many of your guests.
Support travel to the Middle East. I can promise you the importance of your words, confident advice and positive outlook to your fellow Americans will be one of the greatest gifts to mankind, at the outset of a new era.

Safe travels everyone. Continue on. May you always reach out to your fellow man in other lands, share dialog and aim for understanding that can provide the promise of growth and prosperity to a world of deserving and kind people. I pledge my support to work in leveraging public/private partnerships in 2009. We can all make a difference.